Precautions:

I would first like to say that the overall performance, and reliability of the setup, is directly tied to what parts are used, how well they’re setup, and how hard their used. So please take your time, put a little more thought into everything, and all should work out great. If you start half-assing things, it’s not going to work out. I would also like to say that I am not the one to blame for a blow engine. I’m not the one that decided to turbo your car so….

Please take all responsibility for any modification YOU do

-The boost limit of an average ZC engine with stock internals is around 10psi. This specific boost # is also dependent on what altitude the engine is ran at, and how well the engine is tuned.

-It’s also a good idea not to rev the engine past 7200RPM with stock internals. REV’s will put more tensile stress on the Rod’s then compressive stress. Rod’s are more pron too breaking during tensile stress situations, so if there is any detonation at high RPM’s the rod’s are more prone to breaking.

-Make sure oil lines, coolant lines, and also electrical lines, are all fully insulated if their close to engine/turbo heat, and also make sure they’re not rubbing against something that’s going to eventually make a cut.

Always solder electrical connections. Only Butt-head’s use "Butt Connectors".

Never boost an engine that is not in good mechanical condition. Always perform compression, and leak down test, before even thinking about a turbo setup.

Always install a new distributor cap/rotor, 1-2 heat range colder plugs, plug wires, new fuel filter, and O2 sensor with the new turbo setup. You may also want to look into upgrading the fuel pump to newer hi-flow unit.

A 10/5W-30 synthetic oil should be used. The Turbo will last longer and spool faster with a synthetic based oil. Synthetics also stand up to heat better, so it will be able to handle the stress the turbo brings. I personally recommend Mobil 1 5W-30 super Syn. Mobil 1 is the one brand that has the most money put into quality control, and product development. There have been tests with Mobil 1 10W-30 in a BMW M3. It was tested over 1 million miles of stop and go driving, constant rev changes, and had an oil change every 30,000 miles. When the motor was dissembled, it was practically brand new! One of BMW’s engineers said the piston ring’s we’re good enough to be RE-USED! That is why I use Mobil 1.

Redline Water-Wetter will help reduce coolant temps. I do not however feel that it should be used in a NON FI setup. It will make the engine take longer to heat up, and may even keep the engine temp’s BELOW full warm up temp during driving.

ALWAYS let the engine warm up for a couple of minutes before getting into boost. There are many reasons for doing this, but the main reason is that Honda engines advance the timing under warm up conditions. If you run boost before the engine is up to running temp, it could seriously detonate. Another reason, is to simply let the entire engine get lubed before subjecting it to the stress of RPM and boost.

ALWAYS let the engine idle after a hard run to let the engine/turbo cool down. Turbos and manifolds commonly get to temperatures exceeding 1500 degrees. If you just turn the car off after a run, the water/oil in the turbo will most likely boil, and cake inside the turbo. If you let the engine idle for a few minutes, it allows the engine, turbo, and manifold to all cool down to temp’s that won’t kill the fluids inside/around them. It will allow the engine to continue to pump the fluids through the engine, thus cooling the parts back to safe levels.

Happy boosting!!!