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Oil Lines: |
-Feed line- SS braided line is definitely the way to go for a long lasting setup. The Braided lines can take a lot more pressure and heat then normal rubber hose. Just think of an oil leak in the feed line (which normally run’s 10-70psi)! You might also not find out that you have a leak until it's too late. ; |
Here’s a list of the Part’s needed for a SS feed setup: |
-Drain line- SS line is also recommended for the drain setup as it is still more reliable then regular rubber hose. It isn’t however, as necessary as the feed line to run SS braided lines, as the drain line is not subjected to any pressure. The oil pan will need to be tapped for the oil drain line. A fitting will need to be placed 3 inches from the bottom of the pan. It is best to find a used pan, tap it off the car, and then install it with the turbo setup. Make sure the fitting is not too low as well. The drain line will get flooded with the oil already in the pan, thus killing the flow of oil in the line. |
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Water lines: | |||||||
-The DSM turbos use a water-cooled center-section to cool the bearings. This is a good thing to have, as it will help prevent oil from "caking" inside the turbo. This is why most non-water cooled turbo’s must utilize a turbo timer to allow the oil to cool the turbo down after a hard run. Turbos with just oil cooled center sections, need more time to cool down properly then the water-cooled variety. |
-The water lines in a ZC setup come from the EACV. The feed line to the turbo comes from the left EACV line (when looking at it from the bottom facing the front of the car), and goes to the front of the turbo. The return line goes from the back of the turbo into the line that the old EACV line went to. Your basically just routing the turbo in the middle of the left EACV line, only the line now has to reach all the way to the front of the engine. |
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